Sewing Vintage

1940's Yarn Sample Book

2012-01-08T02:31:00.000-05:00

While going though some old magazines from my stash today I ran across this F & K Yarn Company sample book. There is no date on the catalog, but it is from the 1940's, judging by the fashions. It looks like they were pitching door-to-door sales by housewives here. I suppose they had "Yarn Parties" and pooled their orders. Anyway, it's fun to look at the amazing variety of wool and silk yarns that were available at the time.

I couldn't find anything on the F & K Yarn Company, but on one of the pages that I didn't reproduce here, their advisory board shows that Jane Franklin, Leading Authority in Hand Knitting, was their Chief Instructress, and on another page was listed J A Keller, Prop.

Transference

2011-10-22T00:35:00.000-04:00

I found these iron-on transfers at an estate sale last week and bought them purely because they feature magazines that I love. It's getting harder and harder to find good uncut copies of The Designer and The Delineator anymore. In fact, I also bought a few loose fashion illustrations from this same sale--cut from the pages of The Delineator of 1915.

The dress below is kind of deceptive, as when you actually make the skirt, it is quite a bit wider than that. I made a dress from a 1919 pattern, so I found this out. Ankle-hobbling dresses were all the rage in about 1913, but women soon learned it was really hard to get around in them. In fact, the woman I bought the lace from that I used to embellish said 1919 dress was in her '90's at the time, in the 1980's, and described a dress she had bought in 1913 which was the height of fashion. She couldn't lift her foot high enough to get on the streetcar! She was mightily embarrassed to have to hike her skirt to do it.

Here I am in the 1919 dress and vintage hat and a good case of sunburn.

You can see one of my prized 1929 McCall's patterns in the background and a Singer bird card.

Hankie Corsages

2011-10-13T00:48:00.000-04:00

In my constant quest to find things that people might want to buy from me I have started selling handkerchiefs. Some that I just acquired from my Mom that were in my Grandmother's stash had some silverfish damage but were still beautiful. What to do? I have made them into corsages--or fascinators if you wish. What do you think?

I've also started making pincushions.

The tops twist off and you can stash things inside.

Drawn-Thread Hankies

2011-09-25T01:23:00.001-04:00

A few weeks ago I bought a baggie of vintage hankies from an estate sale on 1/2 price day. I now realize I should have bought all of them. When I looked at the 12 hankies I had bought I was surprised by the quality and workmanship on these tiny treasures. Here is a pic of the most amazing one that I am selling. It is less than 10 inches square and made of tightly-woven cotton. I took this at 600 dpi so I could look at it closer. This is actual size.

The embroidery and drawn-thread work are so fine you cannot see the stitches with the naked eye. Here are two screenshots I took when I blew up the above scan.

That's satin stitch, not outline stitch. And check out the buttonhole stitch around the edge.

Here is one I'm keeping for myself and framing. The drawn-thread work is amazing! This is actual size. Again, too small to see the detail.

Here is the detail.

Can you imagine the size of the needle and the time it took to work this?

Check out the other hankies I have for sale in my Etsy store. Today I found an unused lipstick hankie from the 1950's. They were made in a dark red cotton so you could correct your lipstick and not mess up a nice white hankie.

I have a small collection of children's hankies packed away and will dig them out for subsequent posts.

Tassellated

2011-09-04T21:44:00.003-04:00

If I have a secret vice it is tassels. In all colors and sizes and materials. I just can't resist them--especially when on deep discount.

The next three pictures are of some tiebacks I got yesterday at Field's Fabrics for $2.97 each!

A little mussed because it was knocking around in a box at the store.

It's twin still sporting a taming cellophane. Don't you just love those little monkey balls? (or monkey's fists)

Beads!

I love tassels so much I have them all over the house.

On a valance.

On a chair.

On another chair.

Hanging from the chandelier.

A special category for me is beaded tassels. Most of them are stored with my Christmas decorations as they seem to appear at that time of year. Of course I wait until the after-holiday discounts to buy--unless they are REALLY special!

The best places to look are Big Lots and Fruit Basket Flowerland (in Grand Rapids, MI). Sometimes Target or Meijers will have them in their decorations, too. The best beaded ones are made by underpaid workers from India.

I think I first became fascinated with them when I read an article about Scalamandre in Victorian Homes a long time ago. They were making reproduction curtains for an historic house with a big budget. Pictures showed artisans making elaborate tassels and tie-backs with wooden moulds and silk thread. Sadly, even things in their discount store were too expensive for me. The link above to their store does not show many tassels, unfortunately, but it does link to some fabulous Vanderbilt mansions they have decorated.

(Limited) Grand Opening of The Sewing Palette

2011-08-19T23:55:00.000-04:00

I have been waiting since April to tell you all this! There have been a few bumps and delays along the way, but a new selling venue for sewing patterns and needlecraft books will be opening up on Monday, 22 August 2011 from the folks who run Pattern Rescue. My patterns sales at Etsy have flatlined, and I am slowly moving patterns over here after they run their 4-month course on Etsy. I have linked you to the buyer's page so you can all sign up and be ready for the Grand Opening. There will be a few weeks for testing the system and working the kinks out before the advertising push begins and the Official Grand Opening after Labor Day. The category pages will be up ASAP, so you will have to browse a bit to see everything right now. So get in early if you want the best choice of patterns. And spread the word!

Salesman's Samples

2011-06-16T00:57:00.002-04:00

I thought you might like to see some neat things I picked up at an estate sale a while back. These salesman's samples were what salesmen shopped around to the stores and clothing making establishments to show what was available every year.

First up is 100% wool felt in 33 glorious colors. This folder is dated May of 1949. The folder is linen-backed paper with a grommet hole for hanging up. Click on picture to view full size.

Next is Silk Belting. The folder is leather-pressed paper. The belting came in widths from 5/8" up to 4-1/4", and beautiful colors!

Last up are some yummy velvets, which are, I believe, rayon. The folder is shiny gold paper.

Forties Maternity Wear

2011-03-06T04:05:00.002-05:00

I just added these two sweet patterns to my Etsy shop. The first is a 1940's maternity dress or smock. It is basically a square shape with a waist tie and some nice ruffle details and a sweetheart neckline.

Here is the matching slip. These came from the same person, but the slip pattern was never used. It adjusts in the back.

The Pajama Game

2011-02-26T03:02:00.001-05:00

One of the less challenging items of clothing to make is a set of pajamas. They usually don't require much fitting as nobody sees them anyway (or shouldn't!). The top either is a slipover with a v-neck or a placket, or buttons down the front. The pants either have an elastic waist or elastic and buttons. The styles haven't really changed much in 100 years for men, and women have adapted the look and comfort of men's pajama styles for their own. Following is a selection of pajamas from the 1940's and 1950's. Most of them are available in my Etsy store.

This guy has to get in one last smoke. This is an example of the placket style and a very simple round neck button style. The pants are only two pieces--no side seams. Notice the shes instead of comfortable slippers.

These little guys have pajamas just like Dad's, but with the addition of a collar. In pajama sewing the seams are usually flat-felled or french-seamed for comfort. Topstitching is also used to keep the soft flannel from rolling. Buttons, when used, are flat.

Proving that pajamas are timeless, here's a redo of the former pattern--this time the tissue is printed!

Interestingly, these pants have a side seam and are shaped at the hip. I like the contrasting piped trim.

Here is an annoying little brother and some elegant frog closings.

These are looking just like the first pattern for men. I like the shortalls with the drawstring waist.

I'll bet these are a little uncomfortable. A waistband and side seams for a really fitted pant. Looks more like a leisure outfit than pajamas.

Now these are really wide and wonderful! Bellbottom pajamas.

A terribly unflattering robe without the belt, and extremely bulky with it!

Robes are pretty universal except that women's and men's wrap to different sides. Looks like Ronald Reagan as a boy! Ken doll had a pajama set with slippers just like #1.

Cute slippers.

Aren't these adorable?

From the 1990's. Showing that things never change (except the models get hunkier!). And evidently floors get warmer.

Here are some bedjackets for eating breakfast in bed. They look pretty pulled together for just getting up.

Baby Dolls. I remember them well!

And this is my mother's nightgown pattern. I understand when my father saw version 1 for the first time as a new husband he was not amused.

Today is National Hat Day

2011-01-15T01:31:00.001-05:00

What are YOU wearing?

Interesting Sleeves

2011-01-08T01:57:00.001-05:00

I like patterns that have something different than the usual read-to-wear stuff. The patterns below all have very interesting sleeve variations that make sewing vintage so much fun.

These have the seam on the top. I just love this pattern!

This example is seen a lot in 40's dresses. There are usually pattern pieces for shoulder pads, too.

Here is a nice sleeve that was on one of my favorite 1980's blouse patterns, too.

Of course, I had to include dolman sleeves. This was a favorite suit of mine. The t-shirt is simple to make and looks good in most fabrics.

Another dolman for that classic slouchy no shoulders 1950's New Look. This one is cut in one with the bodice.

This bow would look good if you have a long neck.

Another one of my favorite patterns.

The buttons and tabs are sweet.

Another dolman with a raised waistline. Waspie definitely required!

Silly picture aside, this dress makes an interesting strapless effect in contrasting fabrics.

These are all available in my Etsy store.

Vintage Children's Patterns

2011-01-05T04:41:00.001-05:00

I have another question for my followers: Do you think there is a market for vintage children's sewing patterns? Below are some of the patterns I had listed for several months on Etsy, of which I only ever sold one. I know it's hard to get most little girls into something that looks decent these days, as opposed to the current style of Britney-wear, but infants and toddlers would have to wear whatever you put on them it seems to me.

Yet Another Store

2011-01-05T03:12:00.001-05:00

I've opened another store, this time on Artfire at http://www.artfire.com/users/CatnipHillTwo. I will be adding some more items there periodically and will try to have different items than are in my Etsy store.

I have a question to ask of my followers. What kind of vintage clothing do you buy? What era?

I have a lot of things to list from the Edwardian era and pre World War II, but don't know if it is selling well. Is there a market?

Rakes and Sweepers

2011-01-01T18:09:00.001-05:00

I ran across this today while rearranging some things and decided to write about it.

The box is 4-3/4" by 2-1/4 " and 3/4" deep. The stamp is gone as well as the postmark, but I think it is from the 1930's.

This was inside.

This is about full size.

Here is the instruction sheet for the little rake.

And then there was this nice brochure wrapped around the rake. (Why do I keep hearing Jerry Lewis?)

Enlarge this and check out what little Mary has been doing with her oversized scissors. That is Rice Flakes all over the rug and she is making confetti of Mama's Good Housekeeping. Looks more like a mess a boy would make. Mama is practicing for her Lady Gaga tryouts.

I'm making this full-size so you can see the nice graphics. They used real silver paint on the cover and some of the sweepers.

Look at that beautiful braided cord and rubber bumper. I am going to have to try replicating that for myself.

And looky what else I have!

The top reads "If this toy gives satisfaction why not buy a full size Bissell at the same place"

And here is my full-size sweeper.

It's a Universal and is also stencilled with the name of the department store that sold it - "Winegar's, Michigan's Greatest Home Furnishings Store". Since I live in Grand Rapids and I had never heard of Winegar's I went to the Kent County GenWeb site and did a search. Here is a link to the bio of William Winegar, founder, and here is a link to a portrait of him (another bio is on the preceding and following pages). William started the store and then brought in his sons, Frank, William, and Louis. Here is a caricature and bio of Frank Winegar.

The above from "The Grand Rapids Furniture Record", 1919. You had to be a pretty good salesman to sell refrigerators in January in Michigan!

But, back to the Bissell sweeper. You can click to enlarge to read this.

The above is from: Illustrated New York: The Metropolis of Today, 1888, p 205

Anna Sutherland Bissell was the President of the Bissell Carpet Sweeper Company for 30 years, after the death of her husband, Melville.

You can still purchase this non-electric version of the Bissell Carpet Sweeper.

Tabu

2010-12-27T02:30:00.001-05:00

Here is a perfume gift box with unopened bottles of Tabu by Dana. The larger bottle is not the one the box was built for, however, as the padded opening is 1/2" longer and rectangular like the little one. The sizes are 2 fl oz and 1/8 fl oz.

The perfume has condensed and evaporated even though the bottles are still sealed with wax under the caps. It still smells ok, but, not knowing what it smells like fresh, it may not be usable.

There are little foil tags on strings around the necks. Blended in the USA with Imported Essences.

Here is the cover of the pretty box. I could not find another online, so don't know if this is a Tabu box originally or one of the other Dana fragrances. Does anyone know?

Jean Carles created Tabu in 1932. Here is his method of becoming a perfumier. Here is a link to a blog that reviews vintage perfumes. Evidently the scent is not for the timid. I got some on my fingers from the wax and it doesn't smell as bad as some of the descriptions I've run across,but it is not for me.

Here is the description of the fragrance:

Top notes: Bergamot, Orange, Neroli, Coriander, spice notes
Heart notes: Clove bud, ylang-ylang, rose oriental, jasmine, narcissus, clover
Base notes: Patchouli, civet, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin, amber, musk, oakmoss

I learned a new word - anosmic. It is the inability to distinguish smells.

The New Dana Perfume Company now sells Tabu, but aficianados disparage it as a supermarket brand and say it does not smell the same as the original.

New Endeavor

2010-11-25T22:03:00.001-05:00

First of all, I apologize for not posting anything for a month. Living got in the way of blogging. I promise to be better this winter when there are fewer distractions. That said, I have an announcement to make.

Over at my Etsy store I have just put up some items I have been working on for a few weeks--Feral Cat Hats. While not everyone's cup of tea, they will appeal to the young at heart and lovers of cats everywhere. A friend of mine runs a T-N-R called Carol's Ferals here in Grand Rapids, Michigan and that was my inspiration for the hats. A portion of every sale goes to Carol's Ferals for neutering and caring for feral cats.

They come in S thru XL, 20" thru 24". I'm not making children's sizes because of the added hassle of federal regulations. Surely there is someone on your holiday list that would wear one of these proudly. I am selling them at random because I make them as I'm inspired by the colors, so you never know what you will get. Sort of like kittens.

Domesticity

2010-10-26T22:52:00.001-04:00

Here's a little brochure I picked up a while back.

Just how often has your current vacuum spoken to you?

Judging from the fact that there is no suction unless the wheels are rolling back and forth the average housewife will get quite a workout vacuuming the portieres unless she has three arms. (Or a helper, as shown.)

Here is the Kenney patent referred to. They were still referencing this patent in 1967.

Vogue Special Design

2010-10-24T00:26:00.001-04:00

I just added these to my store. Coincidentally I have 4 Vogue Special Design sew-in labels left, too!

Daffy Gladys

2010-10-21T17:00:00.001-04:00

Gladys loved flowers. Especially if they were purple. Gladys also loved to embroider and crochet and had developed real skill with both. Sadly, Gladys wasn't very good at botany. Or color coordination.

You can purchase Gladys' lovely runner in my Etsy store. It is 16" x 41" and has a slight yellowing in the center from being folded up in a drawer for years. I don't believe it was ever used.

I'm sure there is someone out there who appreciates all of Gladys' hard work!

Poodley Poo

2010-09-26T18:31:00.001-04:00

What could be more ubiquitous to the 1950's than poodles? Poodle accessories? Or poodle wallpaper?

Or this?

I think it looks more like a llama.

This lovely accessory and even some pekingese abominations are to be found in this American Thread Co Star Gift Book No 140, now available at my Etsy store. If you're really into poodles, don't overlook the dishtowel and the other craft book. Just put poodle in the search box when you get to my store.

Incidentally, the hat above is called a "Jibber" in the instructions. I have no idea why. Different definitions for this word lead me to sailboats, stealing, balking, blogging, snowboarding, and Mr T. Anyone have any idea where this name came from?

A Glorious Potpourri of Crafting

2010-09-11T18:13:00.001-04:00

I am in the process of putting some new old manuals in my Etsy store and I'm giving you a preview in case there is something that you just have to have.

First up is one I know you'll want.

This is the original--not the repro I've seen on Amazon. You can tell by the original price in the corner. Very good manual for making hats circa 1944.

Another one that features hats is this Woman's Day Annual from 1947.

Lots of inspiration here, plus doilies, mittens, gloves, sweaters, etc.

From the Domestic Sewing Machine Company for making over and mending. No date, but this was encouraged during WWII.

A pamphlet from 1943.

All about Talon products new in 1968.

Knitting for children and babies.

Don't let your babies eat yarn.

Frightening clowns. Why was that little guy playing with elephant poo?

Beautiful doilies.

Ubiquitous Poodles!!

How-To Books.

This one from 1966 features lots of RED!

And more weird hats and weirder purses--perfect for all those made with love especially for you, faery wear, steampunk, burning man Etsy crafters. (Not saying any of you are like that! I've been reading a lot of Regretsy posts lately. Warning! Not for the easily offended!)

Give me some time to get them all up. If there are any that strike your fancy, let me know before I put them up and I will Reserve them for you. I haven't set any prices yet, so bear with me.

Catnip Hill Genealogy

2010-09-03T00:24:00.001-04:00

I have started my own genealogy business by creating a web page and emailing all my friends. I hope that I can generate some business to keep myself going through this unemployment, and would appreciate everyone telling all their friends about me. Here is a link to my site: Catnip Hill Genealogy.

Thank you.

Keep Your Hat On!

2010-09-03T00:09:00.003-04:00

This hat elastic references a patent from Dec of 1940 by John W W Holden of Providence, RI. It was not the elastic he patented, but the metal gadget that attached to the hat. If you have looked at pictures from this era you will see that ladies wore their hats at extreme angles on their heads and were probably glad to have a helpful item like this. It replaced these,

which were not much good without masses of hair to anchor them in. They were still used in a shortened form, however, along with bobby pins and combs.

Ladies were starting to wear their long hair in a roll from temple to temple around their heads, and Mr Holden was well aware of this. He invented an imitation horsehair roll in 1937 in several diameters to roll the hair around.

In 1941 he was still inventing hair rolls.

Like most of the other inventors I have featured, Mr Holden was prolific. In 1928 he was interested in bead necklaces and the problems of them coming unstrung. In 1933 he was concerned with how far a fisherman could cast a line and know the length of his cast, and was pitching his idea to Ashaway Line and Twine Manufacturing Co of Ashaway, RI. The 1930 census reveals he was 41 years old, born in Massachusetts of English parents, got married at age 25, and he and wife, Grace had no children. He was a jewelry jobber, which explains his interest in necklaces.

I found this current listing:

John W.W. Holden Inc.
Private Company, Headquarters Location .. Providence, RI .. (401) 944-1515 .. Wholesale: Medical, Dental, and Optical Supplies

So it looks like Mr Holden was successful with his inventing.

Baby Cat Needs A Blanket

2010-08-29T23:42:00.003-04:00

Baby cat went looking for a blanket. He found this yummy seamist green one.

But it was wayyyyy too big for him.

Then he found this nice sea-shelly one.

He like the colors but it was wayyyy too big.

Then he found this nice stripey one.

He liked it very much, but it was still wayyyyy too big.

He tried another stripey one.

It was smaller, but still wayyyy too big.

Then he spotted this one!

Just Right!

These baby blankets made by my Mom are so pretty and soft it makes you want to have a baby! Ummmmm, no thanks! She's frustrated that my brothers and I didn't produce enough offspring to satisfy her knitting and crocheting needs so she just keeps making blankets in the hope she can find some babies to give them to. The blanket closet is getting a little full so she gave some to me to sell on Etsy. They will be available shortly for all your baby cuddling needs. Buy one for yourself!

The Simplicity Design Guide, 14

2010-08-26T15:26:00.001-04:00

I hope you have enjoyed this neat booklet. It is a rare find.

And here's the last page.

Another Shameless Plug

2010-08-25T15:15:00.002-04:00

"Jane, I've got the best idea!", Ann whispered evilly. "See that couple over there with the horrible matching sweaters? Let's try to break them up! We can do it, we've got our granny square bikinis on underneath our clothes today."

"Make sure you swish your skirt !"

"That ought to get his attention away from that matching sweater freak."

"Oh, look! There's Olivia! Are those leather pants she's wearing?"

"You're the one that I want you karma chameleon, you!"

The above illustrations are from some knitting and crafting books I just put in my Etsy store. The following just didn't fit into the story line but are equally worthy of mention.

Remember when you were little and would wait eagerly until the next McCall's Needlework and Crafts magazine came out and your mother bought it? Remember all the strange little things you could make out of odds and ends like paperclips and hairpins? Who thought up all of that weirdness like twig sculpture

pebble and macrame jewelry

toys made out of apricot pits

knitted lions wearing clothes

giant hamburger pillows?

(that skewer looks dangerous!)

And then there's the beautiful. I love this sequinned Chanel jacket.

Say what!!??

The Simplicity Design Guide, 13

2010-08-25T14:41:00.003-04:00

The Simplicity Design Guide, 12

2010-08-24T15:30:00.001-04:00

Humping It

2010-08-24T04:43:00.001-04:00

Here are some more nice hairpins still in their original cellophane! I looked up the patent holder, Solomon Harry Goldberg, owner of the Hump Hairpin Manufacturing Company, and it seems he was a busy fellow. In addition to these hairpins, patented in 1903 while he lived in Danville, IL, he also was involved with collar buttons. In 1909 he improved his hairpin.

Here is a patent for a new improved hairpin box from 1922, and a hairpin container from 1923.

He got pretty whimsical with this hairpin holder from 1909. Seems you spread apart the strands and stick the hairpins in the skirt. That would be a fun thing to find!

With the success of his hairpins he had another brilliant idea for a safety pin built along those same lines. His explanation says it enables more material to be pinned all the way to the end, and would lie flatter. I have never seen one of these.

A man who worked for him patented a hairpin forming machine.

Things were going good until Irene Castle bobbed her hair. Solomon regrouped and called his invention a bobby pin and kept accumulating his fortune. At the end of this article is a rather long scholarly essay on bobby pins that mentions Solomon H Goldberg's contribution near the end.

And here we have it: the modern bobby pin, patented in 1929.

Cards to sell them on.

In the 1930 census, Sol H Goldberg, born 1885, and his wife, Ruth, their three children, the oldest 7 years old, three maids, a nurse, and a governess are living in Chicago, IL. With all that money, he is renting an apartment at Jackson Tower Apartments for $1000 a month. He is a Manufacturer and financier, Hairpins, etc. He was born in Ohio, his parents Germany and Austria, and Ruth was from Vilna, Poland.

In the 1920 census he is lodging in Chicago, IL with his two sisters although he is marked as married. He is a Manufacturer of hairpins. He was born in 1881.

In 1910 he is the head of a household that includes his brother and sisters and he is a Manufacturer of Roofing and Req Supplies. That answers the question I had when I was reading the patents. I kept seeing shingles and roofing apparatus being patented by a Solomon H Goldberg of Chicago and assumed it was a different man. So in 1910 he had patented his hairpin and improved it and was still running the roofing business and hedging his bets. He was also involved in the retreading of tires in 1920. He also invented several means of packaging fragile items. A busy man.

Here's what he did before. He also invented a machine to print the design on sheets of asphault.

The Simplicity Design Guide, 11

2010-08-23T13:42:00.003-04:00

The Simplicity Design Guide, 10

2010-08-22T16:52:00.001-04:00

The Simplicity Design Guide, 9

2010-08-22T01:31:00.003-04:00

So-Me-On

2010-08-20T16:36:00.002-04:00

Isn't this a cute little guy? He's a sew on or glue on applique from the 1920's. The stamp at the bottom says the company that made him is "Hollander's". Try doing a search on THAT! Not one to give up, I went to my favorite search engine, Google Patents. I put in the work "applique" and voila! (Results after the pics.)

Here is the back. So many choices. Such small pictures.

When I put the work "applique" in the Google Patents search engine I got a whole list of things. I checked the box to arrange them oldest to newest and started browsing in 1828! When I got to the 1920's, to my amazement I started finding appliques done in the same style as this one. The third one was this!

Others in the series follow.

It was Hollander's after all!

These were all designed and patented by Kurt Lehmann for the So-Me-On Corp of New York City. You know me, I had to see if I could find out about this guy. Google yielded way too many current-day Kurt Lehmanns so I went to the 1930 census. I found 3 Kurt Lehmanns in New York. One was 40 and an insurance salesman, one was 15, and one was a 20-year-old carpenter. Hmmmmm. Not to be dissuaded I took of an "n" and tried again. From Manhattan a 30-year-old waiter and a 26-year-old mechanic. Branching out, because maybe just the patent attorney lives in New York I found a laborer in Detroit and a truck driver in Wisconsin. Striking out!

So I went to the 1920 census to see if he had moved out of New York. Looked at the insurance salesman again. Bingo! In 1920 he was a manufacturer of laces. That sounds more like it. Kurt was a 1908 immigrant from Munich who became a citizen in 1914. (They did that back then.) He was married to Sylvia, a native New Yorker, whose family came from Pennsylvania and New York. Son, Kurt Jr, was 5 and they had an Austrian maid.

You will notice that the term of the patent is 3-1/2 years. Maybe after that time he sold the patents and became an insurance salesman. In all I found 21 patents for appliques. When I changed the search to "Kurt Lehmann" I found that he switched to designing fabrics with embroidered designs on it in 1938 and 1939. Evidently insurance didn't do well during the depression.

The Simplicity Design Guide, 8

2010-08-20T15:27:00.001-04:00

Just Ducky

2010-08-19T19:18:00.001-04:00

Aren't these just the cutest? They are Ducky Baby Blanket Fasteners and the beaks hold the corners of the blanket and the ties fasten onto the crib or stroller to keep the blanket on the baby. The ducks are made of celluloid and are probably from the late 1940's. They are still in their box!!

Here is a neat metal rabbit pair from 1928, currently for sale for $45.00!

Apparently these clips are still being made. No doubt because they are a great invention. Here is a pair from Japan. Another set from Japan showing how to use them.

Here is a link to a beautiful set made when silk ribbon was still obtainable. On Ebay for $38 with 4 days left. Wish I had a job!

This auction is for an empty box with beautiful graphics from the '20's for a set of Snugins Coverlet Fasteners.

Finally, a link to a set like mine, but probably later and the ducks are not two-toned and the ribbons are twill.

Here is a link to an Ebay auction of PINK ones in the box with instructions on the back! Ends in 3 days and NO Bids!

The Simplicity Design Guide, 7

2010-08-19T18:38:00.003-04:00

The Simplicity Design Guide, 6

2010-08-18T15:28:00.001-04:00

Isn't this the neatest book? I know there are a lot of instructions out there, but this comes direct from Simplicity Pattern Company and features their patterns. Does anybody have any of the ones pictured?

The Simplicity Design Guide, 5

2010-08-17T15:55:00.001-04:00

The Simplicity Design Guide, 4

2010-08-16T03:20:00.003-04:00

Now we're getting into the good stuff!

The Simplicity Design Guide, 3

2010-08-14T16:05:00.001-04:00

The Simplicity Design Guide, 15

2010-08-13T14:47:00.001-04:00

I'm building up the suspense!

The Simplicity Design Guide, 2

2010-08-13T00:57:00.005-04:00

The Simplicity Design Guide, 1

2010-08-12T00:34:00.001-04:00

Help is finally here!

Girdles

2010-08-11T17:49:00.001-04:00

Here is a cute little girdle with a side front closure. The maker tag is gone. It is still very stretchy, although a very small size. It probably was not used to hold in as much as hold up.

Now this one is more substantial! The tag is gone, but you can see it fits on my larger dummy, though I adjusted the hips a bit. This is a beautiful peachy cotton with a fan design woven in. There are stretchy panels on the sides, at the bottom front, and the top back. A left side closure.

Here is the back.

A view of the inside. There are more of those plushy strips at the bottom edge where the suspenders are sewed on, but the most interesting feature is the two-part back. The upper part is separate from the bottom part so one can bend over without the stockings popping.

This next one is from the 1960's and is made of a lightweight mesh. It "washes like a hanky". Again, more made for holding up the stockings than controlling excess flesh.

Since I have not been getting any comments on this series I will start a new one that may be more interesting to some of you. I still have lots of underpinnings left, so will be showing them later.

Not So Small

2010-08-05T19:28:00.002-04:00

I found another Australian newspaper from 1923 advertising Gossard Longerlyne Brassieres, but there were no pictures. " The ideal brassiere for the not so small figures." Well, mine IS a size 44.

It looks pretty bad. I haven't washed it. Perhaps I should!

Made of heavy peach cotton topped by a doubled cotton lace, and finished with substantial cotton straps, this bra is made for heavier use than the previous ones. There are triangular inserts of elastic material at the bottom sides. There is a nice dip in the back, leading me to believe this may be from the 1930's. It still has the corset hook in the front, however.

Too much glare to read the penciled notation on the folded part. It read 776, with a line under it, then 175. That may have been the price.

The H W Gossard Company, of Chicago, IL, was listed in a 1917 trade journal as selling front lacing corsets and brassieres. This ad is from 1918.

Here is an article about the Ishpeming, Michigan Gossard plant and how it became unionized. Basically the workers were happy and did not want a union, but the ILGWU didn't like that they were getting more money than union workers and that the company wanted to move more work to Ishpeming because the workers were so much more efficient than union workers, so they sent an agitator there. The vote went against the union three times. As soon as they got the union in there, of course it went on strike. It took a long time to force the company to give them the wages the union thought they should have. Nobody likes to be forced to do something they don't believe in. If they had just left them alone the workers would have been happy and so would the company, and things would have progressed normally. I hate unions.

It seems the Gossard family moved to Colorado and bred livestock with the money from their corset empire. An interesting history is here. Go down to the bottom.

Eyelet and Netting

2010-08-04T16:05:00.001-04:00

I love the fabric of this one--beautiful eyelet with embroidery around each hole and between the flowers, backed by a strong cotton netting. The hooks and eyes are on tapes, the bones are covered, and lace beading surrounds the garment with pink silk ribbon. The only thing I don't like are the straps. Way too flimsy.

Sadly the manufacturer's tag is faded to white.

Blended Smoothness and Dragging Weight

2010-08-02T22:04:00.001-04:00

This is a Bien Jolie Brassiere #20035. Research shows this was made by the Worcester Corset Company of Worcester, MA. It has silk satin ribbon straps, a pieced lace top boned and gathered to gathered pink silk, and a heavy lace bottom. I don't think anyone noticed that the cameos are all upside down.

Here is an ad from 1916. The descriptions sound like they might be made of similar fabric.

Here is an ad from 1914. Mmmmmm. Blended smoothness. No unnecessary bumps.

Here is an ad from a New Orleans paper of 1920. One certainly does not want the "dragging weight of an unconfined bust"!

And a store ad from a 1928 Australian newspaper. (I love the internet!)

Hmmmm. I see that the entire picture did not copy. The brassieres were on the bottom. Oh well, you can see what else they sold.

Enhancing the Girls

2010-08-02T02:23:00.002-04:00

People who think our ancestors were uptight haven't looked at the back pages of the popular magazines of the day. People were just as concerned about baldness, weight, pimples, and the size of their - ah - embellishments. All the ads below are from magazines dating from 1907 through 1909.

You'd think Skinny would wear a corset that fit! Do you think anyone noticed the change?

This girl looks a little dubious. I wonder how the medication was administered? If you look in magazines today the sweat-it-off salesmen are still at it.

Skinny probably had some of these, too.

Do you think this girl looks healthy?

You'll have noticed that all these women are wearing chemises under their corsets and that all the corsets stop right under the bust with no support unless the corset is a high one. At this point in fashion history the corsets were getting lower and longer as the silhouette got slinkier with skirts that fit tighter around the hips. Some women were designing proto brassieres for comfort and control, and had been since the 1880's.

This looks like a better alternative than the blow-up ones. This also gives support to the bust and shifts the load-bearing to the shoulders, which the rational garment people knew all along.

This looks like a good idea.

Check this out. Arthur Frankenstein! How evoctive. This one can be worn for sports without a corset!! Horrors!

Now for something from my collection. This is the College Girl Bust Supporter, size 36. It is new old store stock and is nice and clean and crisp. Made of cotton with a woven design, the little hangy thing in the front is to secure around a stud on your corset and also to hang your skirt waist from. It held the garment down to make a clean line and also held the skirt up.

Straps are woven twill tape, and it hooks up the back. I believe it is from the early 'teens.

By 1915 they are being called brassieres.

Notice that all the adult corsets are below the bust models. Their extreme length made it hard to sit down. I know. I've worn one.

I'm wearing a chemise, but not a bust supporter. Probably because I didn't have one at the time. This was 26 years and several sizes ago. I was doing a fashion show at a local house museum and the group (women) requested to see my underwear. I wasn't too thrilled about it, especially when I came downstairs and there was a man there, too. I don't have a picture of the beautiful midnight blue 'teens dress that goes with those stockings. It has side panels faced in light blue silk that are connected under the hem.

Here's a beautiful silk slip. There is a long lace flounce with hanging silk ribbons with ribbon flowers at the top of each. That is a breakfast cap I'm wearing, crocheted by me. I love the little dangly balls at the ears. And make sure you notice the vintage shoes, though you can't see the steel seed bead decorations on the tops. The stockings have embroidered flowers on them, too, because skirts were ankle length. Once, when we gave a show for a nursing home I gave the old men a flash of ankle for a thrill.

Poirette Originators, New York

2010-07-30T22:21:00.002-04:00

Isn't this a cute little tummy girdle? The tag says "Poirette Originators, New York" and 35". Here is the back:

It used to have suspenders, but someone cut them off. The little floaty silk georgette petals serve as panties and the longest ones in front and back have a little pearl button and buttonhole.

Not much coverage, but fun. Probably from the 1920's. The waistline elastic has worn out, but look at those bones! The rest of the corselet is polished cotton.

Everything's Under Control

2010-07-29T16:17:00.001-04:00

Still organizing my closet and rediscovering wonderful things I forgot I had. This two-piece beauty was bought for only $6.00 at an estate sale. It doesn't look like it was ever worn. You would put on the girdle first and then the bra and then hook it together. No muffin top or skin squeezed between long line and girdle. I think it is made of nylon or some other miracle fabric. Just imagine the creaking and clinking sounds when the wearer bent over or sat down. Kind of like a ship in full sail.

First we'll look at the inside of the bra. There is underwire around each satiny pointy cup and, on the inside, a soft pink furry plushy fabric. This fabric is also on the inside of the straps. Comfy!

Note the straps are not adjustable.

There is a sweet string of appliqued flowers on the front, and folded nylon edging.

The girdle is boned and zips up the side front with more of that plush on the underside of the placket and around the upper inside edge. Hooks and eyes fasten before the zipper so no tender flesh is caught in the zipper.

Here is the back.

Elastic panels on the sides and bottom front and a few gussets at the top of the girdle. Of course, hanging suspenders for the stockings. These would have to be the extra long stockings.
I would date this set from the 1950's when slinky dresses closely followed the New Look, when girdles like these would not be necessary under those gigantic circle skirts and crinolines. You did need a sturdy waspie, however. I don't have one of those.

Better Living In Lake County

2010-07-22T23:51:00.002-04:00

I found these little pieces of history at a recent estate sale and got a musty trip back to the early 1960's. Come along with me now to the time when Early American was stylish, but getting it's butt beat by mid-century modern in the suburbs.

Here is a furniture brochure from Noren Colonial Furniture in Waukegan, IL (or Ill. as it was called before the two-letter abbreviations).

No, there isn't!

Don't we all have pictures in our albums featuring people sitting in these?

Next up is a series of advertising/informative booklets sent out by a local builder showcasing his homes and combining that with style tips, called Better Living in Lake County. I guess the people I bought these from were from Waukegan.

This first pic is scary for me. As my parents' last retirement home a few years ago, they purchased a pristine 1959 split-level in what used to be THE place to live in town. They also purchased a lot of the furniture, which was also original (even the Stereo!). It's like stepping back in time. This picture is almost exactly like the addition someone put on my mom's home shortly after it was built. An entire wall devoted to fireplace and grilling indoors, just like our early American ancestors had to do, but theirs no longer works for some reason. (Gas hookup.)

A new concept was the family room, where that new-fangled tv didn't clash with the spinning wheel and ox-yoke chandeliers upstairs.

I bet that floor is cold.

This booklet goes on and talks about gay floors, baseboard radiators, stainless-steel kitchens, and indoor planter boxes. Oh, and did you know that those who like the color purple are usually charming, artistic and inventive, but seldom practical? Tell that to Oprah.

Here is Mommy making dinner with her high heels on. I can't see if she is wearing pearls, but she does have on an apron. Gotta look good for the bread-winner!

Moving along to 1961, we still can't quite shake the colonial decorating.

Although we are getting swishy in the bedroom,

and Brady on the stairs.

By 1963 we're getting all cheesy-Japaneezy.

There are articles about nailing or gluing crap to your garage door to make it "distinctive", keeping your sewing room neat, more indoor planters with attached screens, and making "cozy" seating areas.

Tell me the truth, now. Doesn't that upper right one look like a dungeon?

My favorite article explains how to get all the housework done and still have time for "you" before taking a nap and bath and making dinner.

Next up is a series of the same kind of booklet, but from the local bank, instead. These are more interesting and cover more topics, like jokes, cooking, home improvement, MONEY, and gardening.

Here's our lovely homeowners now.

Dreaming of this.

Note the innovative use of glass block and the ugly fountain/sculpture in the front yard.

A garage taking up half the house and a giant barbeque in the back yard! Wonderful use of found objects creates a japanesque feel to the patio.

Large wrap-around windows and a well-lighted basement.

I made this lovely home with the Block City set, shown here. I didn't want to cut the vintage "roofing material" so made my own.

Our homemaker spends her time making cheezy crap to decorate her home like this.

And when hubby comes home they eat this.

I'm really liking that brownie recipe!

Lastly, here's something that was bothering people in April of 1963 - the switch to 7 digit phone numbers.

I'm not going through the rest of them because I'm getting tired of the '60's and need a break. I have a few more books and a Yield House catalog from 1965, too.

All these booklets and the Block City toy will be listed at my Etsy store.

Common Sense and the Wizard

2010-07-17T16:15:00.001-04:00

So I don't keep you in suspense any longer, the Wizard is a cuff fastener. Here is a link to the patent. Here is a link to a ridiculous fabrication with a stupendous asking price.

Here is another one - the Common Sense, patented Dec 29, 1885. It's inventor, Lucien Alexander Stillwagon, was born in Washington Twp, Putnam, Indiana in 1856. He lived in Bowling Green, Clay, Indiana in 1880 and was a Dry Goods Clerk. When he obtained his patent he lived in Greencastle, Putnam, IN. He married Clara and had Lucy and Fred by 1900. They were living in Glenwood, Mills, Iowa. In 1910 they were in Indianapolis, Clay, Indiana. By 1920 Lucien and Clara were living in Denver, Denver, Colorado. Neither one was listed on the 1930 census. I hope he made enough from his invention to have a nice retirement home in Denver.

Below is the Snugfit Collar Button, patented May 11, 1915, Mfd by Weichman Mfg Co, Youngstown, Ohio. It is meant to hold down the stiff, separate collar in the back and be perfectly flat. Other back collar buttons are like two buttons with a shank between them, so not very flat. A discussion of separate collars and collar buttons can be found here. A previous post showing my wonderful ladies' collar and cuff set is here.

These are 1" wide and 3/4 " long, and here is the patent. While researching this I ran across the following website question and answer. Look at the question and then read down a few answers. The actual son of the inventor chimed in!

Common Sense

2010-07-14T03:29:00.001-04:00

Today I am going to give you a puzzle and see if anyone can figure out what this item is.

The writing says Wizard. On the back is Pat Feb 5, 1889. The items are about 2-1/2" long, made of metal, with a swivel squeeze clamp on the end. The other end has a clip. I have shown it open and closed.

I know what it is. Do you?

Bunnies and Blankets

2010-07-13T03:22:00.001-04:00

I found this delightfully illustrated instruction at an estate sale recently. A little research turned up this.

And this item is just wonderful! Wish I had seen it sooner. And this newspaper announcement from 1926 is really interesting.

Follow-Up to Rubber

2010-07-13T02:58:00.001-04:00

I forgot about this. This is a rather more permanent solution to the blouse problem. Remember, It's Boilproof!

Rubber

2010-07-08T22:37:00.003-04:00

There was a new wonder product in the 1940's that was beginning to be used for everything --latex rubber. I'll bet you're wondering what this is.

Well, wonder no longer!

Seems like a lot of trouble to go through to keep your blouse tucked in until you remember that slips were nylon. Blouses were nylon. And what is the chief attribute of nylon? Slipperiness!

Here is the box.

As if that is not complicated enough, check this out.

See that line in the middle of the box at the waistline? This pulls out and pulls the blouse out of the skirt! See the skirt by itself, below.

Read those instructions. Getting dressed in the morning involved prepping the night before, apparently.

These are still in pretty good shape for a rubber product. I can't say as much for the blouse tender. Maybe because it's "live".

To finish off, here is a product to keep your feet in your shoes while wearing slippery nylons.

What Every Woman Wants

2010-07-08T22:15:00.000-04:00

is not what you think!

Don't you just have to have one--right now?

The font looks like a '50's car logo, and the streamlining. . . . smooooth.

Necessary Support

2010-07-04T20:31:00.002-04:00

More underpinnings today. These run the gamut from 1870 to the 1940's. First up, my favorite garter.

This is brass wire wrapped rubber with a notation "Patd Nov 29-70" on one end. I don't know the manufacturer. This is a below-the-knee garter to hold up socks or short hose. (By the way, innocent searches on "sock garters" develop into porn quite quickly. And then there's this. You can thank me later.)

These garters are silk-wrapped rubber with an early plastic or celluloid closure. These were over-the-knee garters and were worn well into the 1960's. I remember my aunt wearing them. They gave you freedom from garter belts or girdles.

This is a sweet pair, still in the gift box, from the 1920's. Of metallic, iridescent ribbon over elastic, these are so cool!
Shoulder pads came into prominence in the 1930's when suits and blouses started sporting extended shoulders.

Here's our old friend, Warren's, again, and below. The first one is wired all around to REALLY keep those sleeve caps up.

I'll finish off with some red, white, and blue for the Holiday!

8 Questions

2010-06-27T00:52:00.000-04:00

Sassy Lassy wants me to answer these eight questions. At least they are not the eight she answered on HER blog.

1) What outfit from a movie would you love to re-create?

Not a movie, but Mimi's Wedding Dress from the Drew Carey Show.

2) Tell us about your sewing spot/room. What is your favorite thing about it?

I don't have a current sewing spot. I haven't sewed much in the past 15 years.

3) Where did you learn to sew? Who taught you?

At home. My mother.

4) If you could have dinner with one person from the past, who would it be?

My Aunt Bobbie Jean. She died too young and I didn't get to know her.

5) What/Who inspires you?

Reading Old House Journal, Victorian Homes, Old House Interiors.

6) What will always make you laugh?

Stupid cat tricks.

7) What is your favorite flavor of ice cream?

Butter Pecan

8) What is something you would like us to know about you that you have never shared on your blog?

I have power tools and know how to use them.

Not A Fashion Era to Relive

2010-06-25T21:31:00.001-04:00

fFeast your eyes on this!

OK. Fess up! How many of you have made and/or worn something like this? When posting this today on Etsy all I could think about was this:

Or this:

These illustrations are from Barbie Doll Fashions I and II by Sarah Sink Eames and are from 1969 and 1971 respectively.

I did, however, make a baby blue rayon tailored jumpsuit with buttons down the front and on the cuffs in the early 1980's. I must really have had a death wish, because I had to completely undress every time I went to the bathroom. I looked great, though, I must admit!

I'll leave you with another horror.

And B*rbie's complement.

Then there's this. M*ttel was in love with yellow and orange for a while in the early 1970's. And giant plaids.

The above two pictures from Book II cited above.

Yes, even B*rbie committed fashion faux pas in the '70's.

(I hope the Matt*l police do not get after me for not using the little R symbol.)

Sewing Eye Candy

2010-06-24T15:40:00.002-04:00

Isn't that just the cutest label you have seen? This Tatrim sew-on trim, a timesaver for those who didn't have time to crochet or tat their own edgings. It must have seemed like a gift from Heaven for overworked mothers.

Here is another beauty. Just look at those colors! Both on the label and the trim. Yummy yellow and lavendar folded bias. Someone generously changed the amount listing when they used a yard.

This seems like a good place for a shout-out to fabrics.net Here is a Bias Tape and Notions Reference Chart. listing manufacturers and products. What a great resource! The only thing I would add is a time-line. If you look at the top corner of the page you will find many more articles about vintage trim. You could browse this site all day. I will be featuring more trims in the future.

Followup to Turkeys and Whales

2010-06-20T22:02:00.001-04:00

I want to give a plug to Wikimedia Commons, the place I found the booklet on Warren Featherbone Company. Here is the Category: Corsets. You will find links to lots of information about different styles of corsets, manufacturers, ads, etc. Follow the links to Books about corsets and see catalogs and booklets. Just ignore all the bondage pictures at the bottom (unless that's your thing) and enjoy learning about making and wearing Victorian and Edwardian corsets. They really do make your vintage clothing look better and even make you walk differently while wearing them. I always check movies and tv shows that purport to be in a certain time period to see if they are wearing the correct undergarments. They are getting better--no more pointy bras like in the 1950's! There is a good scene of a woman getting dressed in 1953's House of Wax with Vincent Price.

Of Turkeys and Whales

2010-06-20T01:36:00.002-04:00

I found some more collar supporters like the ones I wrote about in this post.

This one is from 1914 when collars were large and stood up in the back. Following are two sizes of thread-wrapped wire from the Edwardian period.

Michigan Maid was another product of the Warren Featherbone Company. I have featured other products from this wonderful company and have lots more, so lets look at them a little closer. The founder, E K Warren, was Michigan-born, as was a former blog feature Jeanne Miller. Michigan State University has a nice write up here of the Warren Featherbone Company. Here is an article that appeared in Michigan History Magazine. Lots of pictures of products and ads. You will notice a product, Girdelin, for making waistbands for skirts. I have a roll of this in brown. It's 3-1/2 inches wide and has a bone every 4 inches.

The Warren Featherbone Company has morphed into the Warren Featherbone Foundation. Read about it here. There are lots of patents for this company, which you can find by going to Google Patents and typing in relevant words. Here is a collar support somewhat like the Gladstone. They may have crossed over the line with this one. Here is the one for Girdelin.

A link for a wonderful 1888 informational booklet that shows the process used to make featherbone.

Here is a cloth-covered stay of either bone, celluloid, or something else. I couldn't find anything about Invisibone on Google except some World of Warcraft stuff. ?? It certainly looks like this Warren Featherbone patent, and the illustration is in the style of their company. There was a Warren Featherbone company here in Grand Rapids which morphed into the H H Cutler Company, a children's clothing manufacturer, which has since been bought out and moved away. Interestingly, one of the patentees of a Warren product was Henry H Cutler. I could not substantiate that this was the same Cutler.

And finally, something for the men.

I couldn't find anything about this company, either.

Tapes, Ribbons, and Ties

2010-06-17T01:50:00.001-04:00

Continuing on the theme of underpinnings, here is a selection of corset ties and tapes--replacements for the back cords.

These actually already have the tips.

You would have to put tips on these, yourself.

Next up are replacement ties and straps for lingerie.

Isn't that last one pretty?

I Lied

2010-06-17T01:34:00.001-04:00

I said I was done posting about La Jeanne Lingerie Guards but I ran across two more I had collected and stored in a different place. These are black and pink! I have all the colors--my life is now complete.

And look what else I found that I thought I was done posting about?

A Tale of Betty and Catherine

2010-06-10T22:08:00.001-04:00

I found this wonderful scrapbook recently here in Grand Rapids at an estate sale. When I got home I discovered that inside were some mementos and a picture. More on that later.

The illustrations were signed "Betty Betz", so, being me, I looked her up on Google. It seems she was a socialite illustrator and writer of teenage advice books and a cartoonist. She had the first advice column for teenagers. She also was one of the first female celebrities to have a tv show. She designed clothes for teens. She had a pretty remarkable career. I found her obituary in the Palm Beach Post and the Palm Beach Daily News. She died at age 90 on 17 April 2010 in Bermuda.

There are a lot of products with her illustrations on them, and this woman features some of them in her museum and website.

Now, back to the former owner of the scrapbook. Here is her picture:

Her name is Catherine Terze and she received this book as a gift from her aunt and uncle in1956. She graduated from St Mary High School in Jackson, Michigan in 1961. When I Googled her name I found this from the Social Security Death Index.

Catherine A TERZE , Birth Date: 8 Jun 1943 , Death Date: May 1982 , Social Security Number: 383-42- 7955

     State or Territory Where Number Was Issued: Michigan , Death Residence Localities , ZIP Code: 48842

     Localities: Holt, Ingham, Michigan

    Another site says she died in Ann Arbor, Washtenaw, Michigan.

So it looks like her book made it's way to Grand Rapids via a relative or someone else who bought it. Now you can own it. I put it up for sale on my Etsy site.

You Know What They Say About Men Who Wear Bow Ties. . .

2010-05-31T02:51:00.002-04:00

"I should have listened when my girlfriends told me never to date a man who wears a bow tie. And look at the atrocious color!"

"Where's his other hand?"

"Oh No! Now he's spinning it and waiting for my reaction!"

"It's a good thing I thought to bring my Mad Money!"

Here's what Clarice didn't see. Didn't I tell you yesterday? Put Hollywood on it and everyone will buy it!

Virtually undetectable. Except, of course, for that gigantic red motor sticking out of your neck. No one will ever know. Made in Hong Kong.

Here's another novelty item totally unrelated to the others.

"Children will love clipping their nails this new fun way."

Useful. Safe. Attractive. Decorative. Made in Hong Kong.

There is even a removeable plug on the back foot (feet?) for those errant nails.

What is the reason for featuring these quality items, you ask? Why, it's a shameless plug for my Etsy store, again! Surely you know some discerning individual who is looking for useful, attractive items? No? Well, then, how about "gifting" someone with them?

THe Hollywood Cocktail Facial

2010-05-29T15:06:00.001-04:00

Today if you search for "Milk Pak" on Google all you find is Nestle Powdered Milk sold in Pakistan or a food supplement for livestock, but in 1936 it was a different story. The maker of this fine beauty product was Alberto-Culver, Inc of Hollywood, California. I can find nothing of this company's early existence on the web. Even the official company website says it was founded in 1955, which we all know is not true, as this little packet of Milk-Pak would not lie. Wikipedia says the same thing. I could not find anything in the patents section, either--probably because it is listed under the inventor's name, not the company name. I learned way more about blackheads than I want to know. Anyway, enjoy this little item from a time when putting the name "Hollywood" into anything made it worth buying.

Going On A Junket for Junket

2010-05-24T23:19:00.000-04:00

I was at an estate sale today and there were so many old paper items I was in Heaven sorting through them. Found this beautiful book (actually several of them, but this one was unused). I believe it is from 1935 from printers marks inside and information from this website. Yes. They are still making it, although it is hard to find. Now I am on a mission to find some and try it.

Just look at those beautiful colors! They have captured the depression ware exactly.

There was even this little brochure inside.

Doesn't that make you want to try it? Has anyone had this?

I am going back tomorrow for half-off day. If anyone is reading this tonight or in the morning of the 25th and wants one of these, let me know and I'll see if I can get you one.

Being Rational in the 1940's

2010-05-23T02:06:00.001-04:00

I found these wonderful books and case at an estate sale (or maybe two estate sales). The way things are going we should be seeing these reissued any time now.

This site has a downloadable application for a California Ration Book and explains a little about them. Every member of the family was issued a ration book and different stamps were used for different goods and different times. This website has a good explanation.

Book 3 was issued in October of 1943, according to this website. Everyone in the Tharp family had one. You had to watch the daily newspaper closely for bulletins about which coupons were good for what at which time.

If you don't need it, DON'T BUY IT!

Book 4 was issued towards the end of 1943 and had a whole different look to the stamps.

Here is an explanation of the different stamps.

Another way to help with the war effort was with War Bonds. I remember buying stamps every Tuesday (or was it Wednesday?) at school and pasting them in a book to get a savings bond. I only ever got one bond and had to save it a ridiculously long time before I could cash it for $25.00!

Here is little Eloise Hand's savings book.

Hmmmmm. Looks like little Eloise spent her dimes on candy instead of stamps!

Someone is actually selling a stamp book for $29.99 at this site.

Also in this folder was this.

Evidently Mrs Tharp did a lot of canning.

Rationing extended to every part of life, including fashion. Anything that used a lot of material was unpatriotic and there was a lot of recycling going on. I have a booklet that shows how to cut down men's suits and ladies dresses to make clothing for kids. After all those years of wearing skimpy skirts women breathed a sigh of relief when Dior introduced his New Look in 1947.

Demented Dishes, Rotten Vegetables, and Depressed Tableware

2010-05-22T02:50:00.001-04:00

Honestly, does that face make you feel happy? Is this something you would wear to keep the children out of the kitchen? And what about these faces?

What do you suppose has happened to mommy plate? Did the monster tureen kill her? Are the spoons being kidnapped?

Why is Mr Plate so angry? And check out Bat Garlic.

Mr Rotten Red Pepper is making some sort of indecent proposition to Miss Lettuce and love is in the air with the sugar bowl and tea cup.

The peas are just hanging around , the beets are dancing, and the teakettle is oblivious.

They all live on this vintage badly printed apron from a disturbing time in the past. If you wish to become more intimately acquainted with these characters the apron is available for sale at my Etsy site. (shameless plug)

The Wristlet

2010-05-18T00:59:00.001-04:00

This is my favorite gadget of all time and I used it constantly when I was crocheting a lot of doilies back in the 1980's. You unhook the holder from the wrist bracelet, slip a crochet ball of thread on and re-clip. It hangs from your wrist, the ball sits on the circle, which swivels down, and works like a dream. No more chasing the ball around when it falls out of the basket.

This is an ad from the Evening Post, Rōrahi LXXXVII, Putanga 3, 5 Kohitātea 1914, Page 9. That's Maori for Evening Post, Volume LXXXVII, Issue 3, 5 January 1914, Page 9.

A search for the patent revealed that it is probably a Canadian or English patent and not online. The maker is not listed on the item.

I just found this from an auction site in Sussex, which confirms my English origin theory.

Darn It! I've Lost the Rubber for My Mushroom!

2010-05-18T00:21:00.001-04:00

That ought to get a lot of traffic directed to this blog! Shown below is something today we look at and wonder Why? Why mend socks when you can just go buy another pair? My socks always develop holes in the toes, not the heels. If there is a hole in the heel there is also a corresponding hole in my foot.

The rubber was a rubber band--probably a large o-ring--that fitted into a slot around the edge of the wooden "mushroom".

It looks so simple to do in the illustrations, but darning was and still is a boring thankless job. Well, maybe not so thankless to the one with the sore feet! Oh! This is also useful for repairing cigarette burns on that good wool suit.

Amazing Needlework!

2010-05-17T23:49:00.001-04:00

Just look at this beauty! It is new work and I scanned it full-size on my 8-1/2" x 11" scanner so you could see it close up. I was browsing an antique mall and found a bookcase full of these. The proprietor was close by so I asked what country they were from, thinking China or another low labor country. She said they were made by two ladies in Romania. There were doilies of several sizes and some large tablecloths, all with this wonderful needleweaving and crocheting. I just Googled "Romanian crochet" and found this website. It seems this is called Romanian Point Lace and is from Transylvania. The "grapes" are formed of bullion stitch. Here is an explanation of the origin and a slide show. Be sure to look at the other slide shows at the Lacis site.

Hang It All!

2010-05-16T23:10:00.001-04:00

Today another non-sewing-related item. I found this at an estate sale this week. In wonderful shape and shiny and clean.

Although the patent date is 1926, it wasn't granted until 1928, so should say Pat Applied For. Jacob Strand, of Stransky Products Corporation, invented this and, at the same time, also invented a pushpin to hold the hanging picture away from the wall, although I do not have any of those.

A little looking around netted me this patent. It seems the Pat date is for the CARD, not the hangers, but the patent number is for the hangers. Confusing. So it seems this card is from after 1928, then. Anyway, it was a good invention and can still be found today.

Embroider Your Way to Health

2010-05-08T22:33:00.001-04:00

This is a timely article for Mother's Day. I hadn't thought of that when I contemplated writing it, but it works!

Lydia Pinkham was a marketing genius. She marketed directly to women at a time when most doctors were men and women were reluctant to discuss "feminine problems" with them. You cannot pick up a magazine from the late 1800's or early 1900's without seeing her ads for her Vegetable Compound.

This little booklet is a curious mix of embroidery stitches and letters from actual users of the compound touting their miraculous recoveries from one ailment or another. A young girl getting her hands on this would be quite afraid to grow up after reading of all the horrible things her body might do to make her ill. Reading the letters is quite illuminative of what women had to endure on a daily basis before birth control and gynecologists. This compound can cure pimples, jaundice, menopause, "falling of the womb", whites, nervous prostration, congestion of the bladder, and, it seems, infertility. It is still available today, although with modified contents. The wikipedia article gives a lot more information.

Even though Lydia died in 1883 she has a website. I'll bet you DIDN'T know there was a Museum of Menstruation. Wonder if they're only open one week a month? Back in October of 1978 I picked up a copy of MS magazine at Meijer's and stood there leafing through it. On the back page was an essay written by Gloria Steinem that I thought was the best thing I had ever read. I didn't buy the magazine but did remember the article. The magazine has gone, but the article lives here. To go along with that, here is a funny British ad.

Without further ado, here is the book. The embroidery stitches are some common ones and ones not so common and there are many I want to try now. Enjoy!

And finally, Ranger in a chair.

Happy Mother's Day!

Of Bodkins and Braids

2010-05-07T20:30:00.004-04:00

Here is a great little item from my collection. The braid was used mostly for replacement laces for corsets, but could be used for other underwear applications as well. The bodkin, for those who don't have a clue, is used to run the braid thru the casing or holes in the lace or garment easily. It wouldn't work for lacing a corset, however, and the ends of the braid would have to be tipped or hardened in some manner to pass easily through the eyelets of the corset.

That's where the bodkin would go if it was still with the package. :(

This patent took me longer to find, as there was no number--but there was a name and a date. Here it is, by Edwin M Goldsmith, of Philadelphia, PA.

A little more exploration into the patents database turned up Edwin M Goldsmith patenting lots of varied items including a Pneumatic Gun in 1899, a Lamp Chimney Raiser in 1891, a Carrying Device for Pocketbooks in 1900, a Soap Holder in 1902, some kind of coin-operated Clock in 1903, a Pencil Sharpener and point protector in 1903, a Paper Holder in 1905, another Braid Holder in 1913, a Ribbon Reel in 1916, a Holder for Elastic and Braid in 1915, some kind of washing Scrubbie in 1918, a Hair Curler in 1923, and the arrival of grandchildren probably prompted this Washable Doll in 1919. Edwin would have been a fun grandpa to have! He even invented a waterproof bathing suit in 1930. Unsanitary public bathrooms prompted his invention of individual tissue towels wrapped around powdered soap for one-time use in 1925. I think his Buttonhole Tape in 1930 is my favorite because I really hate making buttonholes. Edwin had a few other inventions involving ribbons and tapes and reels to hold them.

Edwin Meyer Goldsmith and Sarah Virginia (Jennie) Friedberger got married in 1891 and had Cecilia in 1892 and Henry in 1893. They lived in Philadelphia, PA. He and Jennie were both first-generation Americans whose parents were born in Germany. Son Edwin, Jr came along in 1902. In 1900 Edwin, Sr was a clothing manufacturer. In 1910 Edwin was a manufacturer of (something) and lace. In 1920 Edwin Sr was a manufacturer of chocolates, which seems quite contrary to all his other interests. He was 47 when he patented his bodkin and braid invention. In 1930 Edwin, Jennie, and Edwin, Jr were living in Longport, NJ and Edwin was a textiles manufacturer, so his inventions must have paid off. A search for Edwin M Goldsmith on Google turned up an Edwin M Goldsmith, III, Philadelphia lawyer, his father dying in 1991. Edwin took out a passport in 1923 so he and Jennie could visit France, Italy, and Egypt and here is their picture from that document. Edwin Jr accompanied them for "study", and had his own passport.

They had been overseas at least three other times before 1923 without a passport, and no previous passport was listed on the 1923 one. I will have to research when passports became necessary for travel. I'll bet World War I had something to do with it.

Edwin died in 1944 and Jennie died in 1933; both in Philadelphia.

Here is another Lingerie Braid Holder with Bodkin called Jewel Lingerie Braid by RitCo, and looks like Fig 5 in the Goldsmith invention, above.

There is an illustration of a lady and the back of her corset under the braid. Also the following copy: "Jewel Corset Laces combining maximum durability and elasticity, will make your corset easy to adjust and comfortable to wear. Ask for Jewel Corset Laces wherever Jewel Lingerie Braid is sold."

Buttons

2010-05-07T00:08:00.002-04:00

These have no company name, but a patent search reveals they were invented by Hans Kanoffsky of Milwaukee, Wisconsin in 1921 and patented in 1925. He also patented it in Canada that same year. His idea was to have flexible buttons that would stand up to use and washing and ironing and be flexible. Well, these are no longer flexible, but they have outlived Mr Kanoffsky!

I found Hans and wife, Martha Wallschlaeger, on the 1930 Milwaukee census. They were both 50 years old and had been married for 10 years (Martha was actually 5 years older). He was born in Bavaria and she in Wisconsin. He immigrated in 1892 and was naturalized. He was a chemist with his own shop and she was a department store artist. I didn't find either of them in the Social Security Death Index or at Find-A-Grave.

Note the cigarettes on both cards. Why is it that men are always portrayed with a stink-weed from the '20's through the '50's? Is it supposed to be sophisticated? Devil-may-care? Urbane? Note the half-closed eyes of #2. He is trying very hard to look cool. #1 is laughing, but won't be in 30 years when his face looks like an old shoe.

My Last Post on Lingerie Guards

2010-05-06T22:09:00.001-04:00

I promise! But I found these and just had to show you.

Gold and Rhodium Plated! They're still shiny. Probably from the 1950's. I believe the Chadwick-Miller Company is still in business.

Follow Up to I Need Support!

2010-05-06T04:03:00.001-04:00

After I posted this I found some more items. For your enjoyment:

Doesn't everyone dance around the house and listen to records wearing only a bra, girdle, hose, and shoes?

Bored with plain old hose supporters? Try something entirely modern--Inviz-A-Grips by Gemco.

And here's how you use them. Check out this ad from 1937. Oh Boy! Here's the patent.

So what do you do when you develop a run and you don't have any clear fingernail polish in your purse?

The Realsilk Mending Kit

Use an Arrestor Wand. No, you don't wave it at the run.

Here's a neat ad from 1941. It seems the company went out of business in 1999.

Lingerie Guard Follow-Up

2010-05-06T02:59:00.001-04:00

Since I posted this I found some more lingerie guards. I can now reasonably date these items as I have also found the patent for them. Unfortunately the digital scanner they used screwed up the page so you can't read all the specifics of the patent, but you can see that the patentee is Jeanne Miller, of Muskegon, Michigan (my home town), and she patented the lingerie guard in 1924 in Grand Rapids, Michigan (my current town). I had no idea she was a homie. Subsequent information shows she located her factory, the Pin-In Lingerie Guard Co at 706 W kalamazoo Ave, in Kalamazoo, Michigan. I know it was still there in 1935 because I found an online city directory showing someone working there. Sadly, I could not locate Jeanne Miller in either the 1920 or 1930 census, as she may have had a different last name than the one on the patent.

It looks like our Jeanne had a sex-change operation--that, or speaking French was no longer cool.

Here's a link to that address. Seems it's an 1860's house. This real estate listing shows the upper apartment. Jeanne and company probably ran the business in one of the downstairs rooms.

BFF Gertrude

2010-05-05T16:43:00.002-04:00

Girls at the turn of the century didn't get allowances and most did not work, so when birthdays and Christmas rolled around it took ingenuity and skill to come up with presents for their friends. Most turned to the needlework and fashion magazines that were prevalent at the time for their gifts. Here is an example:

Who wouldn't like Gertrude for a friend?

To put this gift in context you must know that coat hangers were not common and the typical closet had hooks around the walls for hanging up the clothes that were not stored in bureaus and chests and trunks.

Here is a clip from the wikipedia article on clothes hangers: "In 1906 Meyer May, a men's clothier of Grand Rapids, Michigan, became the first retailer to display his wares on his wishbone-inspired hangers. Some of these original hangers can be seen at the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Meyer May House in Grand Rapids."

As I live in Grand Rapids, I have visited this house many times.

Here is another item I have which could fall into the same category.

This is full-size. It is crocheted out of silk or rayon thin ribbon and is meant to be pinned to the blouse front either as a corsage or at the neck. It's just beautiful.

I Need Support!

2010-05-05T02:46:00.001-04:00

This post will cover support from top to bottom. First up: the brassiere. In the 'teens and 'twenties these garments were for flattening, not enhancing and were mostly just strips of cloth with hooks or buttons, shoulder straps, and sometimes a hook to fasten to the front busk of a corset to hold it down. The chemisette went on over this to hide it and provide coverage under the mostly sheer blouses of the time. There were also slips--either colored to go under same color dresses, or white. These sometimes took the place of the brassiere and chemisette if they were of sturdy fabric and you weren't too buxom. Later on the bra developed (ha!) into more of a support garment when the full corset went out of fashion and pretty slips started to get some shape into them as well. Elastic was still being developed as a woven fabric and there was no spandex (thankfully!--I hate spandex!), so these garments were made of non-stretchy fabrics, as well as the straps. When they wore out you just made or purchased a new pair and buttoned them on. That's the "adjustable" part on the card below. You sewed several buttons on the straps and had matching buttonholes in the slip. Someone used the straps from this card, but didn't need the buttons.

Here's a modern set made of oooooohh Nylon! And a buckle.

These straps are "Perfection"! You sew them on and they are adjustable.

Heading south, here are some elastic hose garters. I think they are for a woman, as the men's version is usually more complicated. These went on either above or below the knee and could become quite uncomfortable if too tight and you were on your feet all day. I have some elastic roll garters that I have worn, but don't know where they are right now.

Here are some Trolley Supporters. Trolley Supporters? That sounds so British! I am not totally sure why they are called this except for the fact that they hang from the bottom of the corset like a trolley hangs from its electric wire. If anybody knows the origin of the name, let me know.

These sound more American. Hose Supporters.

Flappers

2010-05-04T17:30:00.001-04:00

I collected these years ago. I don't see them much, anymore. Of course the ones on the right are modern.

Here is the back of the buttons.

The upper one was glued to something for a decoration and the bottom one was sewn onto something, probably an elastic leg garter.

This one has a safety pin at the back so you can wear it. It's about 10 inches long.

This is a cool little purse made of oilcloth. It's about 4 inches wide.

It has a mirror on the back.

How To Do Things

2010-05-04T00:48:00.001-04:00

At an estate sale a month ago a book caught my eye. "How To Do Things", by The Farm Journal, published 1919. How could I resist a 572 page book of how to do almost anything? I couldn't. As a bonus, this was a special edition for the residents of Manistee County, Michigan and had, in the front, a listing of every farm in every township, with the farmer's names, their wives and children's names, acreage, how many horses and cows, telephone number, own or rent, retired or tenant, and address. Included was a map of each township with the roads numbered to match the farms!

OK. On to learning how to do things! First up, Caponizing Your Cockerels.

Next, Keeping Your Horse From Getting Sunstroke.

Stick a few flowers on that for a girl horse.

Get those rats out of your basement!

And, finally, to keep this sewing related:

See that little item in the lower right? I bought two of them in the commercial version a few years ago.

So if your husband is out making bonnets for the horses and you need the stove moved, this is what you have to have. It's basically a piece of plywood with wooden casters, a padded top covered with oilcloth and tacked around the edge with gay red trim.

This book had a whole chapter on Things for Boys To Do, and nothing like that for girls. Basically I think they were trying to keep them busy doing physical things so they weren't leaving gates open so the livestock could get out--something they kept harping on in the gates section. The poor girls were left helping Mom move things in the house while Dad was out doing things to cows.

Ow, ow, ow, ow!